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[Review] Astral Intensive Moisturiser

Astral Intensive Moisturiser is one of the UK’s longest-running skincare products, with a formula that has remained largely unchanged since the early 1950s. Sold in its iconic blue tub for under £6, it promises intensive moisturisation using a traditional combination of lanolin, glycerin, and petroleum-based occlusives.

That longevity raises a fair question: is Astral a timeless solution for dry skin, or simply a dated formula that survives on nostalgia? The answer depends entirely on how it moisturises and whether that mechanism suits your skin type.

Astral Intensive Moisturiser: At a Glance

FeatureSpecification
Price£5 – £7
Primary FunctionHeavy occlusive moisturisation
Best ForVery dry skin, mature skin, body use
TextureVery thick, rich, slow-absorbing
Key IngredientsLanolin, Glycerin, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum
Vegan❌ (Contains Lanolin)
Fragrance-Free

What Is Astral Intensive Moisturiser?

Astral is a UK-made occlusive moisturiser developed in the early 1950s. It’s marketed as a multi-purpose cream for face, hands, and body, though its formulation strongly favours dry, low-oil skin types.

Current Variants

The brand currently offers three variants:

  • Original (Blue Tub): Densest texture, maximum occlusion.
  • With Shea Butter: Slightly lighter, softer scent.
  • With Cocoa Butter: Similar weight to Shea, best for body use.

Ingredients: What’s Actually Inside?

Astral’s performance is entirely explained by its traditional ingredient structure. It prioritises proven commodity ingredients over modern actives like peptides or ceramides.

Full Ingredients: Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glycerin, Paraffin, Lanolin, Ozokerite, Lanolin Alcohol, Petrolatum, Isopropyl Myristate, Magnesium Sulfate, Propylparaben, Parfum, Amyl Cinnamal, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, Alpha-Isomethyl lonone, Citronellol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Coumarin, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol

The Moisturising System

Astral moisturises almost entirely through occlusion, not modern barrier repair.

Occlusives are ingredients that sit on the skin’s surface to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), while humectants draw water into the outer layers of the skin. Astral relies heavily on occlusives, with glycerin as its only significant humectant:

  1. Glycerin (Humectant): Draws water into the outer layers of the skin.
  2. Lanolin: A wool-derived wax that mimics human skin lipids. It forms a semi-permeable barrier that prevents moisture loss.
  3. Petroleum Derivatives (Mineral Oil, Paraffin, Petrolatum): These all function as occlusive, forming a protective layer on the skin that reduces moisture loss (they act as a “seal”), They are inert, safe, and can reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by up to 99%.
Is Astral Good for “Slugging”?

Yes. Astral functions as a pre-mixed slugging product for dry skin. Traditional slugging involves applying a humectant followed by a separate layer of Vaseline. Astral combines the humectant (Glycerin) with the occlusives (Petrolatum/Waxes) in one step.

Isopropyl Myristate (The Acne Red Flag)

This ingredient improves spreadability but carries a comedogenic rating of 4/5. For individuals with active or cystic acne, this is a clear warning for facial use. It significantly increases the risk of clogged pores when trapped under the heavy waxes in the formula.

Parabens and Fragrance

The formula includes propylparaben as a preservative and several fragrance compounds: geraniol, coumarin, linalool, citronellol, and others. These create Astral’s characteristic scent, often described as “classic cream” or nostalgic, and mask the natural odour of lanolin.

People with documented fragrance sensitivities or contact dermatitis should patch test first. The product is dermatologically tested, though, this tests for average irritation rather than individual sensitivities.

Texture, Scent, and Feel

  • The Feel: Astral has a very dense, wax-heavy texture that softens with the warmth of your hands. It produces a brief cooling sensation before forming a thick protective layer.
  • The Scent: Distinctly floral-powdery and “old-fashioned.” It is a polarising scent, comforting to some, but potentially irritating to fragrance-sensitive users.
  • The Finish: It leaves a high-shine, dewy finish that takes 15–20 minutes to settle. This makes it a popular base for “glass skin” makeup looks, but it will feel greasy on oily skin types.

Astral vs. Other Popular Moisturisers

FeatureAstral IntensiveNivea Creme (Blue Tin)CeraVe Moisturising Cream
Price (approx)£7/ 500ml£6 / 400ml£16 / 454g
Core PhilosophyHeavy OcclusionEmollient + OcclusionBarrier Repair (Ceramides)
FragranceStrong, TraditionalIconic Nivea ScentFragrance-Free
Acne Safe?❌ High Risk⚠️ Moderate Risk✅ Non-Comedogenic
Best ForExtreme drynessNormal to dry skinSensitive/Compromised face

The Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Comparison

The viral comparison exists because both products create a “glass skin” glow under makeup. Astral can visually mimic the dewy finish of Magic Cream at 1/10th of the cost.

However, this similarity is purely aesthetic. Magic Cream contains peptides, hyaluronic acid, and vitamins designed to improve firmness and brightness over time. Astral provides hydration and occlusion only.

It is a great visual alternative, but not a functional treatment dupe.

Verdict

  • Buy Astral if: You have very dry, mature, or compromised skin and want powerful, low-cost occlusive hydration—especially for body use.
  • Avoid Astral if: You are acne-prone, oily, fungal-acne prone, or using an active-heavy routine (retinoids, exfoliating acids).

Astral isn’t outdated, it’s specialised. When the formula matches your skin type, it offers exceptional hydration for the price. When it doesn’t, it causes congestion.

FAQ

Can I use Astral on my face every night?

Only if your skin is chronically dry or on oily or combination skin will the combination of heavy occlusion and Isopropyl Myristate likely lead to “congestion bumps” or breakouts.

Does Astral contain parabens?

Yes. It contains propylparaben. While “paraben-free” is a common marketing term, parabens remain one of the most effective and well-studied preservative systems for preventing mold in large tubs of cream.

Is Astral Intensive Moisturiser suitable for fungal acne?

No. The esters and fatty ingredients in Astral can “feed” Malassezia, the yeast responsible for fungal acne and seborrheic dermatitis.

Is it a Charlotte Tilbury “Magic Cream” dupe?

No. Astral is a traditional occlusive, while Magic Cream is a modern cosmetic formula with actives. They are not interchangeable.

Is Astral Intensive Moisturiser good for dry skin?

Yes. Astral is well-suited to very dry skin because it uses a high concentration of occlusive ingredients to prevent moisture loss. It does not actively repair the skin barrier or add lipids like ceramides, but for low-oil, moisture-deficient skin, it can significantly improve hydration when applied to damp skin or over a humectant.

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